One Owner CP Mustang For Sale
This car is capable of a trophy spot at nationals – are you?
In 2007, trophies went to 12th in CP at nationals. The 2007 FS National Champion, Sam Strano, would have been 7th in CP, 2 seconds ahead of the last trophy spot, and just 2.6 seconds off of first place. In 3 of 5 WDC Region 2007 championship events we both attended I beat Sam by over a second. In the other two I drove like crap but still beat him by a little. Drive like me and you’ll be well up in the trophies at Nationals.
This car is reliable and fast. Ran with two drivers throughout 2007, worst problem was a partially melted clutch cable. It was replaced with probably the last US made Ford clutch cable available and shielded it from the header heat.
The suspension is well sorted, when last measured it pulled a peak of 1.49g, sustained cornering of 1.38g on the asphalt at FedEx field. Pulled 0.75g peak acceleration in 2nd gear before the 14” wide slicks started to spin. Weight distribution is 50/50 left to right and front to rear with a 190 lb driver. Car has about 300 lbs of ballast to be 3070 lbs with a full tank of gas. There is still weight that could be removed: gut the doors, remove headliner & sound deadening, remove rear bumper and hitch, replace glass with lexan.
The last trip to the dragstrip a few years ago on 275/40-17 drag radials at ~3250 lbs with driver (early SM trim) the car ran 11.8 @ 117 MPH. That was leaving the line just above idle, moderating the throttle in first gear, and shifting very gently to keep from breaking traction on every gear change. This was done in the summer at the notoriously slow, and now closed, 75-80 Dragway. The car has never been on a dyno, but I would estimate the power at about 400 hp and 400 ft-lbs. The engine pulls strong from 1800-6250.
I’ve owned this 1992 Mustang LX 5.0 Coupe since it was new. The chassis has around 190k miles, but the engine and transmission have under 4k miles.
Driveline Mods
Everybody who knows this car goes nuts over the power.
1. Bored & stroked to 349 cubic inches
2. 10.5:1 compression with light forged pistons, good rods, ARP bolts everywhere that’s important, balanced
3. Gunther Performance ported Edelbrock heads with 1.90/1.60 valves
4. Comp Cams XE276HR - .544” lift, 224/230 duration at .050”, hydraulic roller
5. Comp Cams beehive springs, retainers, locks. For extended RPM range, although currently I limit the engine to 6250.
6. 7qt road race oil pan with high volume oil pump
7. Edelbrock Performer RPM II EFI intake
8. 1 5/8” MAC long tube headers into 2.5” Dr. Gas X-pipe into 2.5” Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers
9. ASP underdrive pulleys
10. 75mm Pro-M Bullet MAF sensor
11. 70mm Accufab throttle body
12. 30lb injectors, 155 lph fuel pump
13. K&N filter in the stock airbox (silencer removed)
14. Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer
15. Powermaster XS Torque Starter with 200 ft-lbs of torque
16. Fidanza aluminum flywheel (about 10 lbs lighter than the billet steel flywheel it replaced)
17. Ford Motorsport pressure plate with Centerforce clutch disc
18. Lakewood steel bellhousing (40 lbs- way heavier than stock, but I want my feet to stay attached)
19. Tremec TKO 5-speed (Probably 40 lbs heavier than a T-5, but will handle 500 ft-lbs no problem)
20. 3.73 rear gears
21. Griffin NASCAR radiator, Summit electric fan
22. Around 400 hp, and pulls strong from 1800 RPM to the rev limiter.
23. Under 4,000 miles on engine & transmission.
Chassis Mods
Have to keep all that power planted:
1. 1995 Mustang spindles
2. Cobra brakes with Hawk HP+ pads and adjustable bias
3. Maximum Motorsports SN95 front control arms, delrin bushed, ¾” forward offset, Steeda X-2 balljoints. More camber, better curve, better Ackerman, lighter, less friction.
4. Griggs front coil over kit. 8”, 500 lb/in springs.
5. Global West camber plates
6. Stock front swaybar using custom end links with rod ends for zero play.
7. Koni double adjustable shocks & struts
8. Steeda 5-link rear suspension with adjustable height panhard bar
9. Urethane bushed stock rear lower control arms, modified for stock car perches. Adjustable ride height & corner weight.
10. 8” 500 lb/in rear springs in stock location.
11. Stock rear swaybar
12. 16x12 Real Racing wheels with 25x12 Hoosier R35s in front, and 27x14s in the rear. Front tires are nearly dead, but have 4 more unmounted with plenty of life left. Was thinking to try the smaller tires in the rear to narrow and lower the car, plus to be able to rotate tires.
13. ARP wheel studs, 3/8” aluminum wheel spacers in front, ½” aluminum wheel spacers in rear.
14. Stock diff, repacked in alternating sequence with an extra clutch
15. 17x8 wheels with full tread Kumho 245/47-17 Ecsta MX tires in case it rains.
16. Kenny Brown subframe connectors welded in and bolted to the seat mounts.
Misc Mods
1. Cervini’s pin on fiberglass hood (saved 20 lbs)
2. Momo steering wheel, airbag removed (saved 11 lbs)
3. Sparco Evo L drivers seat
4. Odyssey spiral cell battery in right rear corner of the trunk
5. Trailer hitch- once used to pull a Formula Vee
The Bad
1. Hood needs to be painted.
2. Some fender flares would make it look better, but would add weight and maybe width.
3. Paint is faded on the front & rear plastic, and right side a-pillar.
4. Subframe connectors are about 13 years old and the bottoms are rotting (not where they connect to the car, but the bottom side of the connector). Have MM XL Full Length SFCs ready to install.
5. Headers are rusty, and will need to be replaced at some point.
6. You’ll need a trailer unless you have a good friend with a state inspection license.
Price: $11,000
You might be able to build one for twice that, but you'd still have to set it up. This car is ready to go. Could make a good open track car too. Would make a killer Factory Five Cobra donor! Interested? Drop me a line.
Video
Looking out the back for the run from the pic at the top of the page.
Same course, looking forwards. Oct 14, 2007
Pictures
